July 9, 2023
The approach to the Lower Saddle is 90% snow free. A couple patches of snow remain in the boulder fields between the Platforms and the Meadows. Near the Caves there are several short but steep snow crossings. These areas have been shoveled to make for easier crossing this has reduced the hazard but not eliminated it. Getting your axe out for these crossing is still a good idea. The fixed lines are the preferred route of travel up the headwall.
June 16, 2023
Travel from the Lupine Meadows TH to the Garnet Canyon boulder field is mostly free of snow now, and only few steep sections of snow remain across the trail before you reach the boulder field. From hear on out, you will encounter mostly snow. Parties have been traveling both the winter and summer routes to reach the Lower Saddle. Both routes involve steep snow, and may require the use of crampons and ice axe depending on experience and snow conditions.
A significant rock fall event, climber's right of the fixed lines, has put a large amount of rock on the last 200' leading to the base of the fixed lines. Currently, the terrain below the fixed lines is water saturated resulting in an unstable surface for the new rock fall. Use caution when approaching the fixed lines as rocks both large and small are unstable.
